Asta Power Project Crack Codes For Wifi

admin 04.12.2019

Code for the Arduino. First exit the program and change the Serial.begin (115200) and the ESPSerial.begin (115200) to Serial.begin (9600) and the ESPSerial.begin (9600). Now open the Serial monitor again and make sure you select 9600 as the Baud Rate. Now type in the AT command and you should get OK again. Polygon is a gaming website in partnership with Vox Media. Our culture focused site covers games, their creators, the fans, trending stories and entertainment news. The Power Rangers are. Quora is a place to gain and share knowledge. It's a platform to ask questions and connect with people who contribute unique insights and quality answers. This empowers people to learn from each other and to better understand the world. Digital Trends helps readers keep tabs on the fast-paced world of tech with all the latest news, fun product reviews, insightful editorials, and one-of-a-kind sneak peeks.

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Asta Power Project Crack Codes For Wifi Router

If you're testing your hacking skills or trying to learn more about security, your toolkit shouldn't end with your computer. If you're willing to pick up a screwdriver, a soldering iron, or a few other tools, there are several great DIY hacking projects that'll test your mettle and teach you a few things about networking at the same time. Let's take a look at some of them.

This post is part of our Evil Week series at Lifehacker, where we look at the dark side of getting things done. Knowing evil means knowing how to beat it, so you can use your sinister powers for good. Want more? Check out our evil week tag page.

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As with all hacking and network sniffing and monitoring projects, keep in mind that these are the kinds of things you should use ethically, on your own network or networks you have permission to probe. Your company's IT department wouldn't like it much if you started sniffing around their network, and neither would everyone else at the coffee shop trying to get work done. With that out of the way, let's take a look.

Build a DIY Wi-Fi Hacking, Password Cracking, Cell Tower Spoofing Drone

Who wouldn't want their very own high-flying, Wi-Fi cracking, password stealing unmanned aerial vehicle? I certainly do, and it's easier to build than you may think. Back in 2010, a former Air Force cyber security contractor and a former Air Force engineering systems consultant trotted out the WASP, or Wireless Aerial Surveillance Platform, and proved that the government isn't the only entity that can build a drone capable of sucking down information from every network or wireless radio it's in range of. Both Forbes took a look at the drone a few years back, as did Popular Science, not to mention a ton of other outlets. The video above is the first in a two-parter with the folks at Hak5, where they chat with Mike Tassey and Richard Perkins, the creators of the WASP, and take it for a test run. From the Forbes article linked above:

The WASP, built from a retired Army target drone converted from a gasoline engine to electric batteries, is equipped with an HD camera, a cigarette-pack sized on-board Linux computer packed with network-hacking tools including the BackTrack testing toolset and a custom-built 340 million word dictionary for brute-force guessing of passwords, and eleven antennae.

.. On top of cracking wifi networks, the upgraded WASP now also performs a new trick: impersonating the GSM cell phone towers used by AT&T and T-Mobile to trick phones into connecting to the plane’s antenna rather than their carrier, allowing the drone to record conversations and text messages on a32 gigabytes of storage. A 4G T-mobile card routes the communications through voice-over-Internet or traditional phone connections to avoid dropping the call. “Ideally, the target won’t even know he’s being spied on,” says Tassey.

The WASP may be a retired Army target drone, but these days you can make your own with a step-by-step guide or DIY kit from DIY Drones. From there, it's just a matter of packing on the right radios to mount on it, and how to connect to them once the drone is in the air. Luckily, the team behind the WASP have a blog at Rabbit-Hole.org, and while it hasn't been updated in a while, they do go into detail on their build process, the equipment they used, and how to to perfect your own hacker-drone if you choose to build one.

Transform a Safety Flare Gun Into a Wireless Camera Launcher

If you've ever been sailing or camping, you probably have a flare gun somewhere in your gear. In worst case scenarios, it's designed to signal for help when you're lost or somewhere you can't get away from, or just to let others know your position if you know people are looking for you. Well, if you're not in the wilderness (and you don't feel like building a drone), why not turn it into a wireless camera launcher that can fire a camera 250 feet into the air and record everything as it parachutes down to the ground?

This is, of course, another project that originated from the Def Con security conference in Las Vegas. The original project was designed by an Israeli defense contractor to use a 40mm grenade launcher, but Vlad Gostom and Joshua Marpet, a pair of enterprising hardware hackers, decided to build their own using a 40mm flare gun that civilians could easily buy. The duo documented their experiences, although the first attempt didn't turn out terribly well. They've been working on it ever since (off and on), but ideally the next iteration will be a bigger success. If you're interested in DIY-ing it, they rundown all the parts you'll need (and you'll need a lot of parts and enough specific firearm-related equipment you may draw attention from your local authorities). Still, it may be worth it to build a flare gun that can map your neighborhood or be used for other cool outdoorsy projects.

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Turn a Raspberry Pi Into a Pentesting Drop Box (and Disguise It In a Power Strip)

It's no secret that we love the Raspberry Pi, and it's a great platform for all sorts of things, including some awesome network hacking. In a previous Evil Week, we showed you how to turn a humble power strip into a Pi-powered packet sniffer that would look at home underneath someone's desk. That works well for stealthy purposes, like if you want to try it out and see if anyone notices that there's a network monitoring device under their desks, but if stealth isn't totally important, the Rogue Pi is a network monitor that, unlike the Pi-powered power strip, doesn't require you return periodically to pick up the data you've collected. Like we mentioned in our post, the Rogue Pi packs the radios required for you to connect to it wirelessly whenever you need to.

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Build an Arduino TV Annoyer

Most of these projects are aimed at network hacking and information gathering, like any good hacking project, but this one, the DIY Arduino-based TV annoyer, is strictly for fun and laughs. Put simply, this little device will turn on TVs when you want them off, and turn TVs off when you want them on. Think of it as a simple April Fool's gag, or something a little more innocuous and less aggravating than the always-classic annoy-a-tron from ThinkGeek.

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Turn an Airsoft Rifle Into a 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi Sniffer with a Raspberry Pi

From the 'hacking projects I probably wouldn't want to be seen carrying on the street but are still cool' department comes the Hack Rifle, an Airsoft rifle with a Raspberry Pi at its heart that's capable of picking Wi-Fi signals out of the air at long distances. It sports a high-gain directional antenna attached to the barrel, a fold-out screen to monitor the information it's capturing, and a button connected to the trigger to fire up the Wi-Fi antenna, scan for targets, select a target, and crack the target device or network.

The Hack Rifle is running Raspberry Pwn (like the Rogue Pi above), a pentesting Linux distro designed for the Pi. It's designed to be collapsable into five pieces, and has an orange tip so people don't think it's a real rifle—although even its creator acknowledges it's not that simple:

This isn’t a real gun, it’s an airsoft rifle. And yes, pointing anything that looks like a gun at a person or building is a terrible idea, and yes this thing will freak people out and probably get you arrested. That’s why it’s never been outside my apartment, has never been aimed out my windows, and has an orange tip.

Follow his example if you opt to make something like this. In fact, there's little about the build that requires the rifle, although there's some allure to the idea of point, pull the trigger, and hack. Even so, there's a reason this thing hasn't seen the light of day outside of its creator's apartment, and if you want to do something similar, it should stay in yours where it's safe as well. If you opt for a diferent form factor though, you may be able to take the thing around with you—everything you need to know is over at the project site. The commentariat at Hack a Day have some thoughts on the build too (like disguising it as a hedge trimmer instead of a rifle!), and call back to an even older version that could pull Bluetooth as well as Wi-Fi out of the air—and looked significantly less menacing, what with the Pringles cans on the barrel.

Turn a Nexus 7 Into a Portable Network Probing Tablet

If you're looking to build a pentesting or scanning tool that's a little less conspicuous than a huge rifle or a PC attached to some Pringles cans, the Pwn Pad may be perfect for you. The Pwn Pad is a portable pentesting tablet based on the Nexus 7 and designed by the folks at Pwnie Express, a security firm and online store packed with products for the discerning hacker. The Pwn Pad will set you back close to $1100 if you want the tablet and the rest of the gear right off the shelf (complete with support for the gear and training in how to use it all), but if you have the Nexus 7 yourself and just want the code and the radios, you can buy the accessories for less and build your own Pwn Pad at home.

Hack a Day explains you'll ned a few other components of course, including a USB OTG cable with USB Ethernet, Bluetooth, and WiFi adapters, and of course the array of open source pentesting tools included on the Pwn Pad. Rolling your own isn't too difficult if you have the right gear, or just don't want to drop the cash directly for the whole package.

Title image by Tina Mailhot-Roberge.

If you are trying to add Wifi connectivity to an existing Arduino project or have serious aspirations for developing a Internet of Things (IoT) solution, Arduino + ESP8266 wifi module is one of the top choices. Especially the Nano because it is super cheap (<$3) and is very small in size. Using some sort of web-server directly on ESP8266 (e.g. via Lua) doesn't cut it due to the lack of IO pins on ESP8266. You can get a full IoT node out at under $12 with a few sensors, Arduino Nano and a ESP9266 module (excluding the power supply).

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Inspite of a plethora of posts online it turned out to be very hard for me to get this to combination to work. I spent atleast 3-4 days until I actually got this right. The main problem I see is that a lot of the solutions online are actually down-right incorrect, not-recommended or for other similar boards (e.g. Arduino Mega). Also there are a few gotchas that were not commonly called out. Before I start let me get all of those out of the way

Arduino Uno/Nano is very different from say Mega which can supply more current and have different number of UART. The steps to make a Uno and Nano work is different from them.
Power Supply
1. ESP8266 is powered by 3.3V and NOT 5V. So you cannot have a common power supply between Arduino and ESP8266
2. ESP8266 draws way more current (200mA) then it can be supplied by the 3.3v pin on the Uno/Nano. Don’t even try them, I don't buy anyone who claims to have done this. Maybe they have some other high power variant of Arduino (Mega??) that can do this.
3. So you either use a 3.3v 1A power supply to ESP8266 with common ground with the 5V powering Arduino, or you use a step down 5v to 3.3v (e.g. like here).
Arduino <-> ESP8266
1. All the ESP8266 I bought came with the UART serial IO speed (BAUD) set to 115200. Now the problem is that Uno/Nano has only one HW serial, which is set to be used for communicating with the PC over USB with which you are debugging. You can use any other two IO pins to talk to the ESP8266 using SoftwareSerial, but it does not support that high a BAUD speed. If you try 115200 to communicate with Arduino <-> ESP8266 you will get garbage. A lot of articles online show a setup with Arduino Mega which does have two HW serial IO using which you can easily get 115200 and more. So you need to dial the ESP8266 settings to move the communication speed to a more manageable BAUD of 9600
2. Arduino IO pins have 5V and ESP8266 accepts 3.3 v (max 3.6). I have seen people directly connect the pins but you are over driving the ESP8266. If it doesn’t burn out immediately (the cheaper ones does), it will burn out soon. I suggest you use a voltage divider using simple resistor to have Arduino transmission (TX) drive ESP8266 receive (RX)
3. For some strange reason D2/D3 pins on Arduino Nano didn’t work for me for the communicating with ESP8266. I have no explanation for this and it happened on two separate Nano. The Arduino would just read a whole bunch of garbage character. So I had to move to the pins 8/9.
4. In spite of whatever I did, garbage characters would still come in sometimes. So I wrote a small filter code to ignore them

ESP8266
Arduino Nano
Power supply 5v and 3.3v
Resistors 1K, 2.2K, 10K
FTDI USB to serial TTL adapter. Link (optional, see below)

As mentioned above I first set the ESP8266 BAUD rate to 9600. If yours is already 9600 then nothing to be done, if not you need to make the following connection

PC (USB) <-> FTDI <-> ESP8266

Then using specific AT commands from the PC set the 9600 BAUD rate on the ESP8266. I used the following circuit. Where the connections are as follows

FTDI TX –> Via voltage divider (to move 5v to ~3.3v) to ESP8266 RX (blue wire)
FTDI RX –> Directly to ESP8266 TX (green wire). A 3.3v on Nano I/0 pin will be considered as 1.
FTDI GND to common ground (black)

ESP8266 GND to common GND (black)
ESP8266 VCC to 3.3v (red)
ESP8266 CH_PD to 3.3v via a 10K resistor (red)

Power supply GND to common GND

PC to FTDI USB.

One that is set bring up Arduino IDE and do the following using the menu

Tools –> Port –>COM{n}. For me it was COM6
Then Tools –> Serial monitor

In the serial monitor ensure you have the following set correctly. The BAUD should match the preset BAUD of your ESP8266. If you are not sure, use 115200 and type the command AT. If should return OK, if not try changing the BAUD, until you get that.

Then change the BAUD rate by using the following command, and you should get OK back

Smith wesson manuals pdf. AT+CIOBAUD=9600

After that immediately change the BAUD rate in the serial monitor to be 9600 baud as well and issue a AT command. You should see OK. You are all set for the ESP8266.

This step should work for Uno as well. Essentially make the same circuit as above, but now instead of FTDI use an Arduino. I used pins 8 and 9 on Arduino for the RX and TX respectively.

Even though I could easily run AT commands with the PC <->FTDI <-> ESP8266, I ran into various issues while doing the same programmatically in PC <->Arduino <-> ESP8266 setup. So I wrote the following very simple code to pass on commands I typed in the PC via the Arduino to the ESP8266 and reverse for outputs.

The code is at GitHub as https://github.com/bonggeek/Samples/blob/master/Arduino/SerialRepeater.ino

Asta Power Project Crack Codes For Wifi Router

With this code built and uploaded to Arduino I launched the Serial monitor on my PC. After that I could type commands in my Serial Monitor and have the Arduino pass that only ESP8266 and read back the response. I can still see some junk chars coming back (in RED). All commands are in Green and could easily enumerate all Wifi in range using AT+CWLAP and even connect to my Wifi.